borrowing my brothers old nikon d3200. using it with my Arsat N 50mm f/2. the camera can't meter through it, the focus assist dot has a hard time being accurate in anything but bright light, and the lens itself has sticky aperture blades so it's always firing wide open. went on a walk with this setup, it's very nicely compact. took pictures with exposure determined by vibe and these are the best results. it's a novel set of limitations to work with, different from how the digicams limit me.

q + 06

i'm actually really proud of these. none of these are cropped, and have very basic tone edits and light sharpening. f/5.6 on 1&2, f/2.8 on 3.

in #1, the lines lead your eye toward the radio tower but what I think really hits here is the partial framing of the power lines. something about not showing the whole form on the objects that are in focus, up front, and largest does something.

#2 has missed focus? something is off about its sharpness but thats really my only complaint. the lines on all sorts of different levels of depth and angles and textures throw your eye all around the place, and settle on the intense form of the power transformer thing. the bird is at the center of it all but is secondary, it contrasts the transformer more than it exists as its own form.

#3 shows the softness of the 06 lens wide open: zoomed in the grass is not as defined as i'd like it to be but again, this is a minor complaint. the 3 distinct layers. grass, a simulacra of nature, swallowing pricey town homes which have swallowed the true nature (if you can call any nature here "true" at this point) around them, pooling up and rising into the void above.

bouba was rolling around on the floor and despite all the movement i got these fairly clear shots. the lx3 looks quite good even at iso 400, (b&w helps), and at this close a focus distance u actually get some nice subject/background separation. tiny sensor can look dang good if ur capturing a tiny subject

art day

dont sweat it just take the picture while u run circles

light shadow contrast hand. honestly a very safe edit. i'll get there

similar to the last one but 3 completely separate images composed as HSV layers. looooots of different ways to compose.

take 3 images, edit in darktable as monochrome, export all to tifs, gnu imp import all 3 as layers, color > compose using the layers as RGB, badaboom. an image where everything still is monochrome and motion shows up as color.
i took the 3 images using the pentax q's interval shooting mode at 1 second intervals so it would be perfectly still between shots. unfortunately it can only clear the buffer fast enough to take 4 images at that speed before giving up > . >
god i wish i wasnt so hardware limited.
on a nicer camera one could do a burst shot and get some very neat motion across the frames. you could go up to 6 frames if you color the extra 3 as CMY, could do 9 if you let every third be pure luminance. lots to work with depending on the kind of motion you want to capture and how busy you want it to be

3.1MP digicam with a prime lens, no focus, full auto, exposure comp -1.5 to +1.5, jpg and movie only, the buttons double press half the time, flash, and a tunnel viewfinder that is wayyyy wider than what you actually get.
a good candidate for opening up and forcing a new lens onto the front. the metadata reports it as a 9.7mm focal length so im guessing this is like a ~5x crop factor sensor so it's gotta be something wide angle.. but if i were to get any small wide angle lenses i'd be throwing them onto the pentax q lol. i'll test out its video capabilities later, hoping it's particularly crunchymushy.

from january, on borrowed dslr, finally edited

art day

edit image in darktable (1)
export as 16 bit greyscale tif, import to gimp, image > mode > rgb
create new image, fill it with gradients including greyscale black to white, go to the palette menu, import palette from that, sort palette
go back to imported image, select newly created palette, colors > map > palette map
your greyscale image now has colors inserted into it based on an algorithm i dont fully undesrtand (2, 3).

came across this tool in my quest for introducing false color to a greyscale image to cover grey tones lost in the export to 8bit jpg from higher bit depth raws. this doesn't end up doing that, but it looks pretty cool

digicam long exposure by the drainage lake

i like the soft color of a long exposed night sky